Leviton Switch Reset, Voltage Testing, and the Spark Plug vs Ignition Coil Question

If you've ever had a Leviton switch go dark at the worst possible time, or a Toro mower that refuses to start, you know the feeling. I handle purchasing and maintenance budgets for a mid-sized facility, which means I'm the one who deals with electrical gear and a small fleet of lawn equipment. These are the questions people actually ask me. Plus a few I wish they'd ask.

• How do I reset a Leviton smart switch?
• Is the Leviton Decora Smart Outdoor Plug-In Switch worth the money?
• How do I test voltage with a multimeter?
• What spark plug fits a Toro Recycler 22?
• Spark plug vs ignition coil: which one is the problem?
• Why should I ever pay more for a part when cheaper options exist?
• What's one purchase that helps with all of these?

How do I reset a Leviton smart switch?

Most Leviton Decora Smart switches have a quick reset that doesn't require pulling the switch out of the wall. For WiFi models, press and hold the top of the paddle for about seven seconds until the LED blinks amber. Older Z-Wave models use a slightly different reset. If the switch is completely unresponsive, try the air-gap switch: pull out the little tab on the side, wait five seconds, then push it back in. That physically disconnects power inside the switch and often clears the glitch.

If that doesn't do it, check the circuit breaker. I know that sounds too obvious, but a tripped breaker is the easiest fix and it costs nothing. One time I called an electrician for what turned out to be a flipped GFCI. That was a $180 'oops' on my part. Also, if you have a no-neutral installation, some smart switches can act a little odd. Leviton's newer models handle no-neutral setups better, but a neutral wire is always the more reliable path in my experience.

Point is: resetting a switch is free. A service call where I live runs $150–$300. Try the free fixes first.

Is the Leviton Decora Smart Outdoor Plug-In Switch worth the money?

If you'll actually use the scheduling or remote control, yes. I've seen outdoor timers from the hardware store die after one rainy season. A $45 outdoor-rated smart plug like the Leviton Decora Smart Outdoor Plug-In Switch has a weatherproof cover and is designed to live outside. For holiday lights or porch lighting, it's a no-brainer. Don't just look at the price tag, though. Look at the enclosure. A lot of cheap outdoor plugs have flimsy covers that crack in the sun. Leviton's built-in cover feels solid and closes with a decent seal. That matters when moisture is the enemy. I've replaced enough $10 units to learn that lesson.

One caveat: if you're plugging it into a metal outlet box, make sure the box is grounded. I'm not an electrician, but I've learned to ask the electrician to verify that during installation. Outdoor wiring mistakes are not the place to save money.

How do I test voltage with a multimeter?

Set the multimeter to AC voltage (V~), usually on the 200V or 600V range. Black probe goes in the COM port, red probe in the VΩ port. Check hot to neutral. For most North American circuits, you should see around 120V. If you're testing a switch, check the incoming wire first, then the outgoing wire.

Here's a real example. We had a Leviton switch that just stopped working. The switch was barely a month old. The incoming terminal showed 120V. The outgoing terminal showed 0V. That told us the switch was the failure point, not the circuit. We swapped it under warranty and the light worked. If the outgoing side also shows 120V, the problem is downstream—maybe the light fixture or a loose neutral.

A basic multimeter costs $50–$100. It's one of the best investments a facility guy can make. But live electricity is dangerous, and I'm not the safety expert here. If you aren't comfortable, hire someone. I'm just the guy who looks at the invoices.

What spark plug fits a Toro Recycler 22?

For most Toro Recycler 22 mowers with a Briggs & Stratton engine, the common plug is a Champion RJ19LM or equivalent. Don't just take my word for it. The exact model number is stamped on the engine shroud, and the owner's manual or Toro's parts page will tell you exactly which plug to use. Why am I so insistent? Because I once bought a case of 'universal fit' spark plugs at a discount. They threaded in fine, but the electrode gap was wrong. The mower ran rough, we lost half a day, and I ended up at the local dealer anyway. The $2 I saved per plug cost me $160 in labor and fuel. Now I check the part number first. Every time.

The spark plug itself is cheap, usually $4–$8. It's the wrong part that's expensive.

Spark plug vs ignition coil: which one is the problem?

They're easy to confuse because the symptoms look the same: hard starting, misfiring, no start at all. The common advice is to replace the spark plug first because it's cheap and quick. I agree. But if the plug is clean and gapped correctly, and the mower still won't start, don't keep throwing parts at it.

Here's a real story. Our shop had a mower labeled 'needs spark plug.' I put in a fresh plug. It didn't help. Turns out the ignition coil was producing a weak spark. The old plug wasn't dead—it was underpowered. A spark plug test costs almost nothing if you have a $10 inline tester. An ignition coil costs $50–$150. The test is cheaper than the guess.

If you see no spark, or a weak orange spark, the problem could be the plug, the plug wire, or the coil. A small-engine shop can confirm it in about 15 minutes. When downtime costs you real money, paying $40 for a diagnosis is better than guessing wrong on a $120 part. (Mental note: I really should buy an ignition coil tester. It would've paid for itself by now.)

Why should I ever pay more for a part when cheaper options exist?

Because time is part of the total cost. Last spring, our mower died on the one day we needed to finish a property. The same part was $12 online, but it would take four days to arrive. The local dealer had one for $18. I drove over and bought it. That extra $6 bought me four days of uptime.

There's also the hidden cost of 'probably compatible' parts. I've seen rebuilt ignition coils fail within a month. Now we've done the same repair twice and spent twice the labor. In an emergency, buying from a source that can guarantee the part fits is not wasteful. It's the opposite. It's knowing that an uncertain delivery can turn a $60 task into a $600 headache.

That's why I keep a few critical spares on the shelf: a spark plug, a spare Leviton switch, a spare outdoor plug, and a decent multimeter. The most expensive repair is the one you could have prevented.

What's one purchase that helps with all of these?

A non-contact voltage tester. It's a small pen that beeps when it's near a live wire. Costs $15–$25. It takes two seconds to check whether a switch or outlet is actually live before you touch it. I've seen professional electricians use one constantly, and now I always have one in my kit. Here's an extra trick: when a vendor delivers a 'new' electrical component, I test the wires before accepting the order. Sometimes you get a dead unit from the factory. Better to catch it in the receiving bay than after you've installed it and paid the labor.

It's not a replacement for a multimeter, but it's the fastest and cheapest way to answer the scariest question in this job: 'Is this live?'